Vitamin C
Antioxidant vitamin C is the gold standard for addressing dark spots and hyperpigmentation. New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Patricia Wexler, MD, previously told Allure that this particular vitamin contains a property that inhibits your skin’s melanin production, which is what causes discoloration. In addition to brightening and evening tone, vitamin C can prevent dark spots from forming in the first place—with continued use, of course.
Retinol
Retinol is well-known for its fine-line-reducing powers, but the beauty of this multi-faceted antioxidant is it’s also effective in diminishing dark spots. This ingredient’s ability to increase cellular turnover is key to minimizing the look of hyperpigmentation. “From an acne standpoint, the increase in cell turnover helps unclog pores,” Sheila Farhang, MD, a Beverly Hills, California-based, board-certified dermatologist, previously told Allure. “This also helps decrease the appearance of brown or red post-acne spots as well as help collagen synthesis [to tone down] acne scarring.”
Despite retinol’s myriad benefits, the active can cause irritation, whether you have generally reactive skin or are simply new to the ingredient.. That said, with the necessary procautions, “Retinol can be used by nearly everyone if it is used correctly,” Erin Gilbert, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, previously attested. “Start low and take it slow.” Derms we’ve spoken to typically recommend around 0.05% for straight-up retinol every other night, and build up a tolerance from there. You can try a gentler form of vitamin A (like Retinyl palmitate), or look for a product with encapsulated retinol, which means it releases more slowly/over time and is, therefore, more gentle on the skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Due to their ability to enzymatically exfoliate the skin, Dr. Kim says alpha hydroxy acids, also known as AHAs, are the perfect addition to any dark spot-reducing skin-care routine. This group of chemical exfoliators removes the outer layer of dead skin, making it smoother and more even-toned. Some of the most popular AHAs include lactic and glycolic acids, but it’s worth noting that the former is gentler on sensitive skin than the latter. Of course, you can experiment with different concentrations based on your skin’s needs and type, but if you want an intensive AHA-fueled treatment, you may want to consult with your dermatologist about an in-office chemical peel.
What else can I do to prevent dark spots?
“Before you spend your money on antioxidant serums and retinoids to improve the tone and texture of your skin, the most important first step is diligent daily sun protection, which is key to reducing the appearance of brown spots,” says Dr. Marchbein. “Otherwise you are literally throwing your money away investing in other skin-care products,” she adds. Dr. Kim backs this up, adding that SPF combined with vitamin C in the morning minimizes UV damage, prevents excessive melanin production, and contributes to a brighter complexion overall.
Meet the experts
- Roberta Del Campo, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Miami
- Shari Marchbein, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City
- David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City
- Ava Shamban, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Beverly Hills, California
- Nancy Samolitis, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Long Beach, California
- Dhaval Bhanusali, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City
- Patricia Wexler, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City
- Sheila Farhang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Beverly Hills, California
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