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The Golden Secret of Argan Oil and the Struggle to Preserve It
Argan oil, often described as liquid gold, is a prized ingredient in beauty and skincare products around the world. Its hydrating, restorative properties have made it a favorite among consumers seeking natural remedies for dry skin and hair. However, for many rural women in Morocco, this golden oil is more than just a cosmetic product—it’s a vital source of income and a link to their cultural heritage.
The process of making argan oil is labor-intensive. Women gather the fruit from the argan tree, extract the kernels, and then grind them using traditional stone mills. This painstaking work can take up to two days to produce just one kilogram of oil, which earns them about $3. In an economy where opportunities are scarce, this small amount represents a modest but essential income.
For generations, these women have passed down the knowledge of how to make and use argan oil. Fatma Mnir, a cooperative worker, explains that their traditions are deeply rooted in nature and family history. “We were born and raised here. These traditions come from nature, what our parents and grandparents have taught us and what we’ve inherited,” she says.
A Forest in Peril
The argan tree has long been a cornerstone of life in the arid regions of southern Morocco. These resilient trees, which can survive in areas with less than an inch of annual rainfall and temperatures exceeding 50 degrees Celsius, have supported both people and animals for centuries. They help prevent soil erosion, provide food and shelter, and play a crucial role in maintaining the balance between the desert and the coastal areas.
However, the once-thriving argan forests are now under threat. Overharvesting, climate change, and land conversion for agriculture have led to a significant decline in the number of trees. According to scientists, the forest that once covered over 14,000 square kilometers has shrunk by 40% in recent decades.
Zoubida Charrouf, a chemist researching argan at Université Mohammed V in Rabat, warns that the loss of these trees could lead to an ecological disaster. “Because argan trees acted as a green curtain protecting a large part of southern Morocco against the encroaching Sahara, their slow disappearance has become considered as an ecological disaster,” she explains.
The Impact of Climate Change and Overgrazing
Climate change is exacerbating the problem. Rising temperatures are causing fruit and flowers to bloom earlier, disrupting the natural cycles that the trees depend on. Additionally, goats—once part of the forest’s regeneration cycle—can become destructive when they feed on young seedlings. Overgrazing has worsened as herders and fruit collectors move into new areas, putting even more pressure on the remaining trees.
Another challenge comes from camels, which are often raised by wealthy families in the region. These animals can strip entire branches from the trees, causing lasting damage.
Economic Pressures and Exploitation
Despite its growing popularity, the economic benefits of argan oil are not evenly distributed. Women who work in cooperatives often earn very little, while profits flow to middlemen and international companies. Many of these companies, including subsidiaries of L’Oréal, Unilever, and Estée Lauder, use argan oil in their luxury products, which can sell for hundreds of dollars per liter.
Khadija Saye, a co-owner of Ageourde Cooperative, expresses concerns about the dominance of large multinational corporations. “When you take their model and do it better because you have money, it’s not competition, it’s displacement,” she says.
One company, Olvea, controls 70% of the export market, according to data from local cooperatives. Cooperatives say few competitors can match its capacity to fulfill large orders for global brands. Representatives for the company did not respond to requests for comment.
Efforts to Save the Forest
In response to the crisis, the Moroccan government has launched initiatives to restore the argan forests. Since 2018, they have planted 100 square kilometers of trees on private lands adjacent to existing forests. The project uses intercropping techniques, alternating rows of argan trees with capers to improve soil fertility and conserve water.
However, the results have been mixed. Despite efforts to expand forest cover, the trees have not yet begun producing oil due to ongoing drought conditions.
Another major challenge is the supply chain. Between the woman in the village and the final buyer, there are typically four intermediaries, each taking a cut. This makes it difficult for cooperatives to negotiate better prices or store their goods for longer periods.
The government has attempted to build storage centers to help producers hold onto their goods and negotiate better deals. While these efforts have faced some challenges, a new version is expected in 2026 with fewer barriers to access.
A Fragile Future
Despite the challenges, there is still potential for growth. During harvest season, women walk into the forest with sacks, scanning the ground for fallen fruit. For Hafida El Hantati, owner of one of the cooperatives, the forest feels quieter now. “When I was young, we’d head into the forest at dawn with our food and spend the whole day gathering. The trees were green all year long,” she recalls.
She worries about the future as younger generations seek education and opportunities in larger cities. “I’m the last generation that lived our traditions — weddings, births, even the way we made oil. It’s all fading,” she says.
