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Demna’s Final Bow at Balenciaga Marks a Shift in Paris Haute Couture Week
After a decade of shaping the bold and often controversial identity of Balenciaga, Demna is set to take his final bow during Paris Haute Couture Week. The Georgian designer, known for his provocative aesthetic and unapologetic approach to fashion, will present his last collection on Wednesday, marking the end of an era for the Kering-owned brand.
Demna has become a key figure among younger generations, with celebrities like Kim Kardashian, Charli XCX, and Cardi B frequently seen wearing his designs. His influence extends beyond the runway, as he has been tasked with revitalizing Gucci under the leadership of Kering CEO Francois-Henri Pinault. The designer’s work has consistently pushed boundaries, blending artistry with social commentary, making him one of the most talked-about names in contemporary fashion.
The week kicked off with a star-studded show by Schiaparelli, which featured a range of striking pieces that captured the essence of haute couture. Among the attendees was Cardi B, who made a dramatic entrance in a tassled neckpiece and posed with a crow in the rain outside the Petit Palais exhibition space. She was joined by Dua Lipa, who wore a white, petalled gown with daring cutaways that turned heads.
Schiaparelli’s collection showcased a mix of elegance and innovation, featuring black-and-white ruffled gowns, long sculptural evening dresses, and refined tailored suits. The color palette centered around white, black, and silver, with bold accents of red adding a touch of vibrancy.
Haute couture remains the pinnacle of luxury fashion, focusing on handcrafted, one-of-a-kind pieces designed for high-profile events such as galas and red carpet appearances. This season, the week also included a show by Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen, whose creations were inspired by the ocean and David Attenborough’s latest documentary on marine life.
Other designers set to showcase their collections throughout the week include Georges Hobeika, Imane Ayissi, Rahul Mishra, Julie de Libran, and Giambattista Valli. American designer Michael Rider, who took over from Hedi Slimane at Celine, presented his first collection for the brand on Sunday, though it was not part of the official calendar.
Notable Absences and New Directions
Following Demna’s farewell, Belgian designer Glenn Martens will step into the spotlight as he unveils his first collection for Maison Margiela. He succeeded John Galliano in January, bringing a fresh perspective to the brand known for its avant-garde approach.
Chanel will also be in the news this week, as the house presents the final collection created by its in-house design studio. This marks the fifth collection since Virginie Viard’s departure in June 2024. Matthieu Blazy, the new artistic director, will unveil his first collection for Chanel in October, following his appointment in December.
A total of 27 fashion houses will present their collections this week, including Elie Saab, Armani Privé, Viktor&Rolf, and Dubai-based Rami Al Ali, who is set to become the first Syrian designer to join the official Paris calendar. However, some notable absences have been highlighted, particularly at Dior.
Jonathan Anderson, the newly appointed artistic director, has delayed his first haute couture collection until January 2026. He was named in early June to lead Dior’s women’s and couture lines, becoming the first person since Christian Dior himself to oversee all three branches of the brand.
Jean Paul Gaultier is also absent from this year’s schedule. Dutch designer Duran Lantink, appointed as the brand’s permanent artistic director in April, will make his debut during Women’s Fashion Week in October. Since stepping back in 2020, Gaultier has entrusted his couture collections to guest designers such as Olivier Rousteing, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Haider Ackermann, and Simone Rocha.
The week will conclude with a show by Swiss designer Kevin Germanier, rounding out what promises to be a dynamic and transformative edition of Paris Haute Couture Week.
