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The Kolhapuri Chappals and the Cultural Controversy
The iconic Kolhapuri chappals, a traditional Indian footwear from the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, have recently sparked a significant controversy after being allegedly replicated by luxury fashion brand Prada. This incident has brought to light issues surrounding cultural appropriation and the lack of recognition for traditional craftsmanship.
A Design Inspired by Tradition
At Milan Men’s Fashion Week, Prada unveiled a new design of open-toe leather sandals, which were described simply as “leather sandals.” However, these designs quickly drew criticism from Indian fashion critics, artisans, and politicians who recognized the striking resemblance to the traditional Kolhapuri chappals. These handcrafted sandals, known for their intricate interwoven patterns, have been around since the 12th century and are deeply rooted in the culture of Kolhapur.
While the Prada sandals are not yet available for purchase, luxury fashion items often come with a hefty price tag. It is estimated that these could sell for over €1,000 ($1,200) per pair. In contrast, authentic Kolhapuri chappals can be found in local markets for about €10 ($12), highlighting the stark disparity in value and recognition.
Social Media Outcry and Corporate Response
Following a wave of social media outrage, the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce urged Prada to acknowledge the Indian roots of the design. In response to the growing accusations of cultural appropriation, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of corporate social responsibility, acknowledged the inspiration behind the design in a letter to the chamber. He stated that the sandals are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear and emphasized the company’s commitment to responsible design practices and cultural engagement.
Bertelli also mentioned that the sandals are still in the early design phase and may not reach the market. However, he expressed a desire to foster meaningful exchanges with local Indian artisan communities, ensuring their craft receives the rightful recognition.
A History of Similar Incidents
This is not the first time designers have faced accusations of cultural appropriation. In 2014, British designer Paul Smith faced backlash for his black leather sandals, which were likened to the Peshawari chappal. After social media criticism and an online petition, the designer added a note to the product description stating it was “inspired by the Peshawari Chappal.”
Efforts to Protect Traditional Designs
In response to the recent controversy, the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce has decided to patent the Kolhapuri chappals to prevent future copyright infringement. These traditional flat sandals are already protected within India by a geographical indication (GI) tag, which ensures that unauthorized commercial use without sharing benefits is illegal.
As of 2024, there were 603 GI-registered products in India. Additionally, a member of parliament from the Kolhapur district, Dhananjay Mahadik, is supporting sandal makers in filing a lawsuit against Prada in the Bombay High Court.
Challenges in the Leather Supply Chain
Despite political support for the artisans, the leather supply chain for the Kolhapuri chappals has been affected by government policies regarding cows, which are considered sacred by Hindus. Since the rise of Hindu nationalist extremists following the BJP’s victory in 2014, attacks on those transporting cows for trade and slaughter have increased. These attacks disproportionately affect Dalits and Muslims, who are traditionally marginalized.
Artisans from the Dalit community have historically mastered the intricate weaving techniques of the Kolhapuri chappals, passing down these skills through generations. The Dalit Voice, a human rights group, highlighted the cultural significance of these chappals, emphasizing that they represent more than just fashion—they are a legacy of Dalit craftsmanship and resilience.
They described the chappals as “history, identity, and resistance,” urging people to respect their roots.
